Subscribe to my newsletter
Yarnworks Facebook Yarnworker Instagram Yarnworker Pinterest Yarnworker Ravelry Yarnworker YouTube Yarnworker YouTube

Geeking Out: Knots

Tying onto the front apron rod is often a pain point for new weavers. All knots take some getting used to. The type of apron rod you have and what you are trying to accomplish can often dictate which knot you favor. Here is a round up of the three most popular knots weavers use to …

Read moreGeeking Out: Knots

Geeking Out: Warping Choices

My teaching philosophy is pretty much summed up this way: If it works, then do it. If it stops working, try something else. When it comes to warping, there are so many ways to get the job done—from the super speedy direct method that uses a peg, to the somewhat less speedy and versatile indirect method where …

Read moreGeeking Out: Warping Choices

Geeking Out: Get Multiple Setts From a Single Rigid Heddle Reed

The question of how to modify your threading in a rigid-heddle reed to alter its sett comes up from time to time. Similar to the floor or table loom reed, the threading of the rigid heddle determines how many warp ends you have in an inch of warp. The difference between a rigid-heddle reed and …

Read moreGeeking Out: Get Multiple Setts From a Single Rigid Heddle Reed

Geeking Out: Doing a Loom Waste Audit

Most weaving patterns tell you how much loom waste they allow in the warp length within the project specs. In general, I allow 18”– 22” for the direct method, which requires that you tie onto the front apron rod and 22”– 26” for the indirect, which requires that you tie onto the apron rod in front and back. How much loom waste you need for any given project depends on how much yarn you use to tie on your knots, your loom type, and your finishing technique.

Loom waste is the length of warp that you can’t weave due to loom mechanics and the bits that you use to tie onto the apron rods. I’ve observed that beginners tend to use more loom waste than more experienced weavers. This is largely due to dialing in your knotting technique. Your style of loom can also dictate your loom waste. On my Cricket, I use about 6” of loom waste in the front and 11” in the back. I increase this by 15% when weaving on my Flip. If my project includes fringe, much of this length isn’t wasted, it is used in the final project.

Loom Waste on the Front of a Schacht FlipThe next time you weave a project, take the time to do a quick loom waste audit to determine how much loom waste you actually use. If using the direct method, you can do this by measuring the amount of warp left that you can’t physically weave at the end of your project, before you cut it from the loom. Then you can cut the project free of the back apron rod, unwind the project from your front beam, untie the warp from the front apron rod, and measure how much warp you used in the front. Include your headers in these measurements. If using the direct method, you will need to untie in the front and back before taking the measurements.

By taking the time to do this, you have your own personal guideline as to how much yarn you need to allow for any given project. If you are trying out a new Loom Waste on the Back Apron Rod of a Flip Loomtechnique or fiber, I recommend increasing this amount by 10%–15%, to allow for the learning curve.

Schacht Spindle Company wrote an article in their July newsletter about lashing as a way to reduce your loom waste. It is a tried-and-true method weavers use to decrease their loom waste, particularly when they are trying to eke out those last few inches at the end of a project. I generally don’t recommend this technique for beginners because it can be tricky to get your tension even when your learning curve is steep, but after you have a few projects under your belt, you may want to experiment with lashing. That said, you never know what you can do until you try.

Heddles Up!

Liz

There Is No Place Like A Handwoven Home

With Handwoven Home, I set out to write a book chock full of project ideas and know-how as it relates to weaving cloth that lasts for your home. It is a follow-up to my first book Weaving Made Easy, where I assume you are new to weaving. In this book, I assume you have some experience and offer …

Read moreThere Is No Place Like A Handwoven Home

Mixing It Up: Warping Complicated Color Orders

In the past week, I had two separate weavers email me about warping plaid and color-and-weave. Both of these weavers were struggling to get the results they wanted using the direct warping method. You could certainly warp simple stripes and a few of the color-and-weave combos, such as houndstooth or log cabin, easily using the direct …

Read moreMixing It Up: Warping Complicated Color Orders


Liz Gipson Widgets
Blog
terms to know