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Full Circle: One For You, One For Me

Crafting content for weavers who, like me, weave on a rigid-heddle loom provides endless avenues for exploration. The weave-alongs are often an extension of my own weaving practice or perhaps my practice is a result of crafting content for a living. Who can say which drives which.

Over the past year, I’ve done a lot of sampling exploring deflection. Deflection happens when the yarns move under floats and away from plain weave areas. There are lots of structures that if sett right with sleek yarns will allow the warp and weft yarns to move. Deflective Doubleweave comes to mind as does honeycomb effects. Perhaps the biggest class of these structures is loom controlled lace.

One for You

We are well into a weave-along that explore Huck like spots that give the delicious look of circular motifs in the fabric. In this structure, the deflection is emphasized with color-and-weave effects. The weave-along is open to guests until August 22 if you would like to jump in and join us, there is plenty of time. The flow of this weave is particularly lovely.

Light and dark green color-and-weave lace scarf laying on a flat background with an inset detail showing the light passing through the fabric
Color-and-Weave Lace woven in a sett of 10 using Gist Mallo. Photo by Ian Justice, courtesy of Gist Yarn. Inset shows the fabric held to the light allowing light to pass through, highing that this fabric is indeed lace.

One for Me

My husband and I recently purchased a little plot of land just over New Mexico’s northern border in the San Luis Valley. This patch of ground sits on top of a mesa at about 8,000 feet. Like shepherds that drive their sheep into the high country for cooler weather and better grazing, we envision settling our trailer in this spot for long weekends during the hot summer months of central New Mexico. The trailer can sit in a way that allows us to  see sage brush, Piñon and Juniper trees from every window and the door faces the East towards the Sangres.

I first came to this vast valley in the ’70s when my dad and I drove cross country from Virginia to help my uncle take down a water tower, move it to another piece of land, and rebuild it into a kind of domelike structure. When I say help, I was either staying out of the way or serving as a human counterbalance. I was so taken with Colorado that when the opportunity came to attend college  in the state, I leapt at the chance.

holding two old photographs: one of me as a young towheaded child standing on a board while it is being cut, the second is of the water tower at a far distance.
Right: My towheaded years. Did you know the term came from a textile reference, as in “tow” the light rough fibers derived from hemp, flax, and jute. Left: The water tower as seen from a distance. It was dismantled and moved to another location.

We lucked out and have cellular coverage that is strong enough to use as a hotspot, so I can work while we are at camp. (Fortunate or unfortunate depends on your perspective. I love what I do and doing it a little bit each day keeps tasks from pilling up.) The windows of our trailer are covered with white mini blinds that are functional. My mind sees the opportunity to scale up some of my lace studies. There are many kinds of handwoven lace from loom controlled to hand-manipulated. Loom controlled are my preference with a tendency towards the circle shapes of Huck spots or the windowpanes of Atwater-Bronson.

mini blinds on bedroom window—sky and landscape are seen through the slats.
My first window study. The bedroom has two equally sized windows about 27 inches wide by 24 inches tall.

My first set of window coverings are for the bedroom. I’m taking the modified Huck pattern of the weave-along and applying them to a striped warp with random colorwork using various cones of 16/2 linen that have been sitting patiently waiting to be used. The fabric will be hung sideways.

This task also gives me an opportunity to experiment with Tabby Tree Weavers Super Fine Reed, which enables a weaver to create a sett of 20 without using two heddles. I can already tell that while this is nifty tool, the reed is prone to creating a heavy moiré effect. Rigid-heddle reeds are white for a reason. Since I have two-heddle warping comfortably in my wheelhouse and I already have triple of every rigid-heddle reed size, I’m not sure the reed gets me personally much of an advantage, but I’ll reserve judgement until I’m all the way through the weaving process. For those who don’t want thread two heddles or don’t want to invest in duplicates, and I would argue that it is a terrific skill for more than just sett perimeters, this reed is a definite possibility for your reed stash.

three photos: one showing linen in shades of blue, the second showing them wound on a warping board, the warp being thread in a superfine reed.
A collection of blues that I randomly warped in stripes including a bit of color-and-weave then thread in Tabby Tree Weavers Superfine reed.

I have a lot of tasks tapping on my shoulders, including wrapping up this weave-along, preparing for the next, a new semester looming at Tech, and getting the structure guide to print. The manuscript is back from design and making the rounds of a second tech edit, proofing, and eventually indexing. This warp is patiently waiting for me in the evenings.

I have been writing so much about the technical aspects of weaving, that it feels good to just weave in a random way, day dreaming of the fabric gently swaying in the window and not having to write up the particulars. Meditating on cloth making is a necessity for me. Perhaps you can relate.

Heddles Up!

Liz

loom warped and ready to be woven.
Waiting warp.

6 thoughts on “Full Circle: One For You, One For Me”

  1. Newbee weaver question – Could one use this heddle for weaving with linen? I did try to weave with rather fine linen thread once but had to do it with about 4 passes per slot/hole to make it work (don’t remember what heddle I used). Of course, maybe there was something else I could have done? I got a nice little swatch (after washing) but I really would like to weave some linen cloth without using 4 strands if possible. – Thanks!

    • In theory, this heddle will get you finer setts without doubling or quadrupling your ends. However, I don’t think this reed is a very beginner friendly tool. I’ll report back after I finish this warp. You can buy thicker linen or use linen blends to weave linen cloth. 4-ply sport-weight wet-spun linen (1,300 yd [1,189 m]/lb such as Euroflax sport sett well singly in a 12-dent heddle. Linen is its own beastie and tends to highlight any foibles in your warping technique.

  2. I bought a 90/10 (I think it’s 24DPI) Timber Trees heddle a year ago. I tried weaving just a narrow bookmark with 10/2 cotton to give it a try. I was so disappointed with breaking threads that I put it aside and haven’t gone back to it. I did try to call and email them but never got a response. I was hoping there was some simple fix. I know I should follow through and try again but have so far chalked it up to a bad experience.
    I would be interested in your experience with these heddles.

    • I have a feeling that the narrow metal eyes of the heddles provide more abrasion than the plastic eyes of a rigid-heddle. That means the threads need to meet the standards of floor loom strength. Here is hoping my linen is up to the task. I sure started with a giant warp to road test it!

  3. That sounds so nice! I visited the Great Sand Dunes many years ago when we’re were stationed in Colorado Springs. It’s such a spiritual place and I remember how wonderful the air smelled from the pines and other vegetation. The Sangre de Christos are a beautiful sight to see from your window. I hope you get lots of peace, recharging and inspiration!

  4. I’m hoping to get ack to CO/NM next year. So love the landscape. So different from the coastal community where I live. I haven’t gotten to this fabulous WAL yet! Can’t wait.

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