Doodling is one of the ways I calm my mind. Did you know you can google on your weaving, too? Doogles are created by adding a supplemental weft as you weave. During the Spring 2020 Weave-Along, I’ll show you two ways to do this, inlay and onlay. There is a subtle, yet sublime, difference between them. Inlay is the process of laying in a supplemental, discontinuous weft next to a continuous one in the same shed. Onlay allows the supplemental yarn to slide on top of the continuous weft decreasing bunching and creating a different look on the front and back (see below). Not sure exactly what I’m talking about? Join us and I’ll show you!
To construct this runner, I drew on a method popularized by Theo Moorman. By altering thick and thin picks and using using the thin pick as a tie-down thread, you can create shapes that sit on top of the ground cloth instead of in it. (As far as I know, “onlay” isn’t really a recognized thing in the weaving world. It is how I describe the distinction between these two methods.)
In this weave-along, you will learn how onlay and inlay work, the benefits of creating a cartoon to map out your weaving in advance, and get the opportunity to flex your creative muscles by doodling on your fabric. I’ll even teach you a method of weaving the fabric first, then doodling later.
Here is the who, what, when, and where info to date:
This weave-along is appropriate for just-beyond-beginner weaver. I assume that you have already woven a few projects and have a basic understanding of the direct warping process and weaving terminology. Project planning skills are a bonus.
The techniques I’ll share can be adapted to almost any textiles. The specific pattern I’ll be weaving is the Go Your Own Way Runner from Handwoven Home or as I like to think of it now, the “Weave Our Way Through” Runner. The book is available from your favorite bookseller in softcover or as a Kindle edition (affiliate link). The education portion of the weave-along is free. You will need the book to refer to the full pattern and other supplemental references in the book. Even if you don’t have the book, I encourage you to join in and weave with what you have.
10-dent rigid-heddle loom with a 10″ (25.5 cm) weaving width; two 12″–14″ (30.5–35.5 cm) stick shuttles; two 4″–6″ (10–15 cm) shuttles, or you can use butterflies (I’ll show you how to make them); a pick-up stick at least 14″ (35.5 cm) long.
283 yds (258 m), 4-ply *DK weight cotton/ linen blend (1,001 yd [915 m]/lb). Shown in Rowan Creative Linen (50% cotton/50% linen, 219 yd [200 m]/ 3 1⁄2 oz per skein)
218 yds (200 m), 22/2 Cottolin (3,246 yd [2,968 m]/lb) shown in Louet North America Organic 22/2 Cottolin (60% cotton/40% linen, 710 yd [649 m] 3 1/2 oz cone. This 22/2 cottonlin is no longer being distributed in the U.S., any 22/2 Cottolin or similar-sized yarn that is strong enough for warp will work.
4 yd (4 m), 4-ply DK weight cotton/linen blend in contrasting color from ground cloth. Shown in Rowan Creative Linen (50% cotton/50% linen, 219 yd [200 m]/3 1⁄2 oz per skein) and 4 yd (4 m), 2-ply DK weight, novelty cotton in a variegated colorway: Shown in Seedling by Classic Elite (100% organic cotton, 110 yd [100 m]/1.75 oz skein). Classic Elite is no longer in business. Any similar weight variegated yarn will work.
* The pattern labels the yarn as “worsted” but the yardage puts it closer to DK weight.
April 8: Registration link available, welcome information, tips on selecting yarns and modifying the pattern.
April 22: Warp
April 29: Weave
May 6: Finishing
May 13: Show and Share!
I host the weave-alongs for free at the Yarnworker School of Weaving, a community-funded, virtual classroom for rigid-heddle weavers. For more information about the Yarnworker Weave-Alongs and School, check out this FAQ.
A big shout out to all the Patrons who keep these weave-alongs going.